EXTERIOR DOOR AND WINDOW INSTALLATION

                Safeguards against natural log settlement are built into the window and door installation process.  Therefore, all windows and doors will be installed by first building a “floating” rough opening frame and installing it in the opening in the log wall.  The windows and doors will then be attached to the floating frame, not to the log wall itself.

                All window and door openings in log walls should be at least 1-1/2 inches taller than the window casing height to allow for log settlement.  In some instances, you may be required to add a half log to the bottom of the window opening or to cut out a half log at the bottom of the window opening.  Check your log layout sheet in the blueprints.

                Once all openings are the proper size, install the rough opening frames.  Use the illustrations below as a guide.  Sort the splines and R.O. Frame pieces for each opening in the log walls.  The vertical position will be shorter than the opening.  Attach the splines to each piece of 2x8 or 2x6 to be used for a rough opening frame using 8-penny nails.  The spline should be nailed into the groove in the 2x8 or 2x6 so as to fit into the spline cuts on the log ends at the door or window opening.  Drill several holes in the 2x8 or 2x6 pieces and use a reciprocating saw to cut a two-inch long slot above and below the drilled hole as shown.  The frames will be attached to the log wall by nailing through these slots.

                Apply one or two beads of caulk to each piece of the R.O. frame before installing.  Make sure the spline on the vertical pieces fits into the spline cut on the log ends.  Attach the frames to the log ends using 16-penny nails with washers.  Nail through the slots so that the logs can settle without moving the window rough-opening frame.  When the windows are installed, they will be nailed to this R.O. Frame, not to the log walls.  This allows logs to settle without binding windows.  The frame is independent of the log walls.

                Build R.O. Frames for doors in like fashion and install.  Before actually installing the doors and windows, consider your electrical wiring.  Wiring for switches is often run inside of door jambs and through a bored hole in the end of a log to the light switch.  Have your electrician approve any such wiring.

                Before inserting door and window units into their proper openings, you may wish to apply your exterior sealant to the log walls.  This will prevent inadvertent staining of the windows and doors.  See Section X on Exterior Staining.

                Before installing windows, attach exterior window trim to the window.  It is best to use the same species of wood for all exterior trim (fascia, window/door trim, etc.).  Spruce is a readily available specie and matches the log walls well.  Also, Western Red Cedar works nicely, but is generally more expensive and harder to find in all the widths you may need.  You may find it easier to stain the trim before attaching to windows.  We recommend 1x6 trim for windows/doors.  Clean, sand and stain.  Cut the window/door trim to its proper lengths and attach with galvanized 8-penny finishing nails.  Use the illustration below as a guide.  Install the trimmed-out doors and windows by nailing the trim boards to the R.O. frames using 8D galvanized finishing nails.  Never attach a door or window directly to a log wall.  Doors may be installed without trim and trimmed out after installation.

                Once windows and doors are installed, use regular bat insulation to seal the airflow around the window or door.  From inside the home, stuff small pieces of insulation in the cracks between the window casing and the R.O. Frame.  Do not, however, apply the interior window and door trim boards at this point.